You get 20 feet of non-stripped invisible thread and a case of magician's wax. It also comes with instructions on how to perform the levitating card (hover card) and ways to levitate other small objects. Normally sells for over $20 at some places, however, you can get it here for $5! Free shipping!
Price: $5 USD
Showing posts with label Levitations. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Levitations. Show all posts
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Magician's Wax
Perform tons of tricks with this magician's wax. Allows you to perform the floating card, card through window, etc. Normally retails for over $10 but we are currently selling it for $3. This is enough wax for multiple tricks to be done. This is currently the same wax that I use. For international shipping, please contact me.
Price: $3 USD
*Note* The picture shown is not the same wax, however, it is similar.
Invisible Thread
This will be one of many products we will offer you for purchase. It is usually a utility that you may need for a trick, at a cheaper cost. This product is 20 feet of non-stripped invisible thread. This allows you to do amazing and easy tricks such as levitations with cards and other small objects. This normally runs for over $10. We are selling it for $4 plus free shipping to anywhere in the U.S. Email me for shipping prices for everywhere else!
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Matrix Levitation
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iicRMrYe3nE
The Matrix
METHOD: This effect is basically accomplished through the aid of a gimmick that
consists of a dual leg/back brace that locks out at just under 90%, which will help support
your body weight, combined with several mechanisms to shift your center of gravity
away from your upper body, allowing you to stay balanced while leaning backward at an
impossible angle. Simple, huh?
Making the Gimmick: To create the gimmick, you’re going to need (or at least
need access to) several things.
1. One or two (depending on your height) 5 gallon heavy duty plastic buckets (wal-mart,
lowes, k-mart…etc.).
2. A drill. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
3. A hinge that locks out. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
4. A jigsaw. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
5. Steel toe boots. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart, shoe stores, sporting good stores…etc.).
6. 2 pairs of the heaviest ankle weights you can find (no lighter than 10 lbs, totaling
40lbs…4x10=40) (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart, sporting good stores…etc.)
7. Some socks. (If you don’t know where to get socks, stop reading this book, and go
buy a helmet…which can be found at wal-mart or k-mart or sporting good stores).
8. Six nuts and bolts. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
9. A sharpie marker. (wal-mart, k-mart, gas stations…etc)
10. Some elastic bands large enough to fit around your leg. (wal-mart, k-mart, sporting
good stores…etc.)
11. Some sandpaper. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
12. Two pairs of pants, one a size or two smaller than the other (Pants-R-Us)
And last but not least
12. A measuring tape. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
Probably the most random shopping list you’ve ever seen. But don’t worry, it’s going to
start making sense in a minute. Hopefully. The first step in making this gimmick, is to
create the leg/back brace.
Making the leg/back brace-
1. The first thing you’re going to do is take your own personal measurements for the
leg/back brace. You want to take several separate measurements. First, you want to take
the width of your waist. Not all the way around, just from one side of your hip to the
other. Then, measure the length from just under your armpit, to your hip bone. This will
be the back brace part of the gimmick. Now, you’re going to draw out the exact
measurements of your back onto the bucket, except for this piece, and this piece only,
you’re going to add about an inch and a half to the length. What’s going to end up
happening is that you’re going to draw a rectangle with the two shorter sides being the
width of your hips, and the two longer sides being the length from your armpit to your
hip. Cut out this rectangle with your jigsaw, and sand the edges with the sandpaper until
they are smooth and have no sharp parts. Now, you’re going to do the do the exact same
thing (measure, draw, cut, sand), except you’re going to do it with the measurements
from the top of your buttock to your knee pit (the part just behind your knee), and from
your knee pit to your ankle. You’re going to end up with three separate pieces.
2. Now, You’re going to hinge the two leg pieces together. So, take the hinge, mark
where the holes need to be on the plastic pieces, drill the holes, and hinge the upper leg
part to the lower leg part with the hinge and nuts and bolts. Make sure the hinge is facing
the right direction. It should be attached so that it acts as sort of a knee between the two
leg pieces. (Note that the leg pieces should wrap comfortably around your own leg, with
the hinge directly behind your knee, and locking out in the position your leg would be in
if you were sitting down in a chair).
3. Now, you’re going to connect the leg piece to the back piece with the nuts and bolts
the same way you connected the two leg pieces, minus the hinge. You want this gimmick
to be attached to your strongest leg, so adjust it accordingly. Since most people are right
handed (right legged?), I’ll describe it from the right leg perspective. You want to
overlap the two pieces about an inch or an inch and a half, the upper leg on top, and
drill/bolt them together with bolts about an inch from each side. Since this is the right
leg, you want the right side of the gimmick to be completely flat, and the left side to be
the side that has the back brace section sticking out. You would simply reverse this for
the left leg.
Attaching the Gimmick- Now, you’re going put on your smaller pair of pants, and lay
the gimmick flat against the back of your leg OVER the small pants. Take the elastic
bands and wrap two of them around your lower leg, and two around your upper leg,
helping to fasten the gimmick in place. Now, you’re going to put on your regular pants
over top of the gimmick, and the small pants.
Adjusting Your Center of Gravity- Don’t go and try the effect yet, because, unless you
have very good balance, your center of gravity is too far towards your upper body, and
will just make you fall over and get hurt. You need to do a few things to help push your
center of gravity more towards your lower body, allowing you to balance more easily.
The first thing you’re going to do is attach all 4 ankle weights to your gimmicked leg.
They should be stacked one on top of the other, running from your ankle to just under
your knee. Walking to be uncomfortable, but for an effect like this, it’s well worth it.
It’s going to be hard for you to walk with 40+ pounds strapped to one leg and not the
other at first, but you’ll soon get used to it. Then, you need to take two socks, fold each
of them in half, stack them on top of each other, and place them in the heel of your right
(if your gimmick is on your right foot) steel toe boot. This is going to cause you to stand
sort of tiptoe on this one foot, shifting your center of gravity more towards your leg. The
combination of the heavy steel toe boot, the tiptoe positioning of your foot inside the
boot, and the ankle weights will be enough to shift your center of gravity more towards
your legs, and allow you balance better.
Performance- Now you’re ready to perform. With everything in place, have two
spectators hold your hands (one on each side of you), and slowly lower you back. You
want to do this very, very slowly. Not only does this give the illusion a more realistic
feel, but it helps to prevent the gimmick from snapping, and not only ruining your hard
work, but embarrassing you and possibly causing you SERIOUS injury. As soon as
you’re bent back in position and you can feel yourself being supported and balanced by
your right leg, tell them to open your hands, and allow you to let go of them. Slowly,
slowly, slowly let go of their hands, showing that you’re suspended in mid-air. Keep this
position for several seconds, and then slowly lift your left leg into the air. The funny
thing is that lifting your left leg straight out actually helps you balance by shifting your
center of gravity even further towards your legs. Keep this position for as long as you
want, being careful to keep your balance and not fall (falling could break the gimmick,
and possibly break YOU). As soon as you’re ready to get up, call for your assistants to
come over, grab your hands, and help you get back to your feet.
The Matrix
METHOD: This effect is basically accomplished through the aid of a gimmick that
consists of a dual leg/back brace that locks out at just under 90%, which will help support
your body weight, combined with several mechanisms to shift your center of gravity
away from your upper body, allowing you to stay balanced while leaning backward at an
impossible angle. Simple, huh?
Making the Gimmick: To create the gimmick, you’re going to need (or at least
need access to) several things.
1. One or two (depending on your height) 5 gallon heavy duty plastic buckets (wal-mart,
lowes, k-mart…etc.).
2. A drill. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
3. A hinge that locks out. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
4. A jigsaw. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
5. Steel toe boots. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart, shoe stores, sporting good stores…etc.).
6. 2 pairs of the heaviest ankle weights you can find (no lighter than 10 lbs, totaling
40lbs…4x10=40) (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart, sporting good stores…etc.)
7. Some socks. (If you don’t know where to get socks, stop reading this book, and go
buy a helmet…which can be found at wal-mart or k-mart or sporting good stores).
8. Six nuts and bolts. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
9. A sharpie marker. (wal-mart, k-mart, gas stations…etc)
10. Some elastic bands large enough to fit around your leg. (wal-mart, k-mart, sporting
good stores…etc.)
11. Some sandpaper. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
12. Two pairs of pants, one a size or two smaller than the other (Pants-R-Us)
And last but not least
12. A measuring tape. (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart…etc.).
Probably the most random shopping list you’ve ever seen. But don’t worry, it’s going to
start making sense in a minute. Hopefully. The first step in making this gimmick, is to
create the leg/back brace.
Making the leg/back brace-
1. The first thing you’re going to do is take your own personal measurements for the
leg/back brace. You want to take several separate measurements. First, you want to take
the width of your waist. Not all the way around, just from one side of your hip to the
other. Then, measure the length from just under your armpit, to your hip bone. This will
be the back brace part of the gimmick. Now, you’re going to draw out the exact
measurements of your back onto the bucket, except for this piece, and this piece only,
you’re going to add about an inch and a half to the length. What’s going to end up
happening is that you’re going to draw a rectangle with the two shorter sides being the
width of your hips, and the two longer sides being the length from your armpit to your
hip. Cut out this rectangle with your jigsaw, and sand the edges with the sandpaper until
they are smooth and have no sharp parts. Now, you’re going to do the do the exact same
thing (measure, draw, cut, sand), except you’re going to do it with the measurements
from the top of your buttock to your knee pit (the part just behind your knee), and from
your knee pit to your ankle. You’re going to end up with three separate pieces.
2. Now, You’re going to hinge the two leg pieces together. So, take the hinge, mark
where the holes need to be on the plastic pieces, drill the holes, and hinge the upper leg
part to the lower leg part with the hinge and nuts and bolts. Make sure the hinge is facing
the right direction. It should be attached so that it acts as sort of a knee between the two
leg pieces. (Note that the leg pieces should wrap comfortably around your own leg, with
the hinge directly behind your knee, and locking out in the position your leg would be in
if you were sitting down in a chair).
3. Now, you’re going to connect the leg piece to the back piece with the nuts and bolts
the same way you connected the two leg pieces, minus the hinge. You want this gimmick
to be attached to your strongest leg, so adjust it accordingly. Since most people are right
handed (right legged?), I’ll describe it from the right leg perspective. You want to
overlap the two pieces about an inch or an inch and a half, the upper leg on top, and
drill/bolt them together with bolts about an inch from each side. Since this is the right
leg, you want the right side of the gimmick to be completely flat, and the left side to be
the side that has the back brace section sticking out. You would simply reverse this for
the left leg.
Attaching the Gimmick- Now, you’re going put on your smaller pair of pants, and lay
the gimmick flat against the back of your leg OVER the small pants. Take the elastic
bands and wrap two of them around your lower leg, and two around your upper leg,
helping to fasten the gimmick in place. Now, you’re going to put on your regular pants
over top of the gimmick, and the small pants.
Adjusting Your Center of Gravity- Don’t go and try the effect yet, because, unless you
have very good balance, your center of gravity is too far towards your upper body, and
will just make you fall over and get hurt. You need to do a few things to help push your
center of gravity more towards your lower body, allowing you to balance more easily.
The first thing you’re going to do is attach all 4 ankle weights to your gimmicked leg.
They should be stacked one on top of the other, running from your ankle to just under
your knee. Walking to be uncomfortable, but for an effect like this, it’s well worth it.
It’s going to be hard for you to walk with 40+ pounds strapped to one leg and not the
other at first, but you’ll soon get used to it. Then, you need to take two socks, fold each
of them in half, stack them on top of each other, and place them in the heel of your right
(if your gimmick is on your right foot) steel toe boot. This is going to cause you to stand
sort of tiptoe on this one foot, shifting your center of gravity more towards your leg. The
combination of the heavy steel toe boot, the tiptoe positioning of your foot inside the
boot, and the ankle weights will be enough to shift your center of gravity more towards
your legs, and allow you balance better.
Performance- Now you’re ready to perform. With everything in place, have two
spectators hold your hands (one on each side of you), and slowly lower you back. You
want to do this very, very slowly. Not only does this give the illusion a more realistic
feel, but it helps to prevent the gimmick from snapping, and not only ruining your hard
work, but embarrassing you and possibly causing you SERIOUS injury. As soon as
you’re bent back in position and you can feel yourself being supported and balanced by
your right leg, tell them to open your hands, and allow you to let go of them. Slowly,
slowly, slowly let go of their hands, showing that you’re suspended in mid-air. Keep this
position for several seconds, and then slowly lift your left leg into the air. The funny
thing is that lifting your left leg straight out actually helps you balance by shifting your
center of gravity even further towards your legs. Keep this position for as long as you
want, being careful to keep your balance and not fall (falling could break the gimmick,
and possibly break YOU). As soon as you’re ready to get up, call for your assistants to
come over, grab your hands, and help you get back to your feet.
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Criss Angel Levitation
Materials needed: One or two (depending on your height) 5 gallon heavy duty plastic buckets(walmart, lowes, k-mart)
A drill (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
A hinge that locks out (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
A jigsaw (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
Steel toe boots (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
2 pairs of the heaviest ankle weights you can find (no lighter than 10 lbs)
Some socks (anywhere)
Six nuts and bolts (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
A sharpie marker
Some elastic bands large enough to fit around your leg (walmart, k-mart, sporting good stores)
Some sandpaper (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
Two pairs of pants one size smaller than the other (walmart or wherever)
A measuring tape (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart)
A now that you have all of those supplies with you.
Making the leg brace:
first you are going to take your own personal measurements for the leg/back brace. First you want to take the width of your waist. Not all the way around, just from one side of your hip to the other. Then, measure the length from just under your armpit to your hip bone. This will be the back brace part of the gimmick. Now you are going to draw out the exact measurments of your back onto the bucket, except for this peice, and this peice only, your going to add about an inch and a half to the length. Whats going to end up happening is that you're going to draw a rectangle with the two shorter sides being the width of your hips, and the two longer sides being the length from your armpit to your hip. Cut out this rectangle with your jigsaw, and sand the edges with the sandpaper until they are smooth and have no sharp parts. Now, you're going to do the do the exact same thing (measure, draw, cut, sand), except you're going to do it with the measurements from the top of your buttock to your knee pit (the part just behind your knee), and from your knee pit to your ankle. You're going to end up with three separate pieces. Now, You're going to hinge the two leg pieces together. So, take the hinge, mark where the holes need to be on the plastic pieces, drill the holes, and hinge the upper leg part to the lower leg part with the hinge and nuts and bolts. Make sure the hinge is facing the right direction. It should be attached so that it acts as sort of a knee between the two leg pieces. (Note that the leg pieces should wrap comfortably around your own leg, with the hinge directly behind your knee, and locking out in the position your leg would be in if you were sitting down in a chair). Now, you're going to connect the leg piece to the back piece with the nuts and bolts the same way you connected the two leg pieces, minus the hinge. You want this gimmick to be attached to your strongest leg, so adjust it accordingly. Since most people are right handed (right legged?), I'll describe it from the right leg perspective. You want to overlap the two pieces about an inch or an inch and a half, the upper leg on top, and drill/bolt them together with bolts about an inch from each side. Since this is the right leg, you want the right side of the gimmick to be completely flat, and the left side to be the side that has the back brace section sticking out. You would simply reverse this for the left leg.
Attaching the Gimmick- Now, you're going put on your smaller pair of pants, and lay
the gimmick flat against the back of your leg OVER the small pants. Take the elastic
bands and wrap two of them around your lower leg, and two around your upper leg,
helping to fasten the gimmick in place. Now, you're going to put on your regular pants
over top of the gimmick, and the small pants.
Adjusting Your Center of Gravity- You need to do a few things to help push your center of gravity more towards your lower body, allowing you to balance more easily. The first thing you're going to do is attach all 4 ankle weights to your gimmicked leg. They should be stacked one on top of the other, running from your ankle to just under your knee. Walking to be uncomfortable, but for an effect like this, it's well worth it. It's going to be hard for you to walk with 40+ pounds strapped to one leg and not the other at first, but you'll soon get used to it. Then, you need to take two socks, fold each of them in half, stack them on top of each other, and place them in the heel of your right (if your gimmick is on your right foot) steel toe boot. This is going to cause you to stand sort of tiptoe on this one foot, shifting your center of gravity more towards your leg. The combination of the heavy steel toe boot, the tiptoe positioning of your foot inside the boot, and the ankle weights will be enough to shift your center of gravity more towards your legs, and allow you balance better.
Performance- Now you're ready to perform. With everything in place, have two spectators hold your hands (one on each side of you), and slowly lower you back. You want to do this very, very slowly. Not only does this give the illusion a more realistic feel, but it helps to prevent the gimmick from snapping, and not only ruining your hard work, but embarrassing you and possibly causing you SERIOUS injury. As soon as you're bent back in position and you can feel yourself being supported and balanced by your right leg, tell them to open your hands, and allow you to let go of them. Slowly, slowly, slowly let go of their hands, showing that you're suspended in mid-air. Keep this position for several seconds, and then slowly lift your left leg into the air. The funny thing is that lifting your left leg straight out actually helps you balance by shifting your center of gravity even further towards your legs. Keep this position for as long as you want, being careful to keep your balance and not fall (falling could break the gimmick, and possibly break YOU). As soon as you're ready to get up, call for your assistants to come over, grab your hands, and help you get back to your feet.
Warning
If you're a heavier performer, you may not want to even try this effect, as the brace apparatus likely won't be able to support your weight. Do NOT try this effect if you have any back, leg, or neck problems.
This effect is presented extremely well if you claim to be inducing hypnosis, or a similar trance like state on yourself. This effect is best done with a very serious tone. It is not very well suited for comedy. If you still have problems balancing, try performing on a hill or a slight incline (with your legs towards the bottom of the hill, and bending back towards the top). This will shift your center of gravity even further, and make it much, much easier to balance.
A drill (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
A hinge that locks out (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
A jigsaw (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
Steel toe boots (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
2 pairs of the heaviest ankle weights you can find (no lighter than 10 lbs)
Some socks (anywhere)
Six nuts and bolts (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
A sharpie marker
Some elastic bands large enough to fit around your leg (walmart, k-mart, sporting good stores)
Some sandpaper (walmart, lowes, k-mart)
Two pairs of pants one size smaller than the other (walmart or wherever)
A measuring tape (wal-mart, lowes, k-mart)
A now that you have all of those supplies with you.
Making the leg brace:
first you are going to take your own personal measurements for the leg/back brace. First you want to take the width of your waist. Not all the way around, just from one side of your hip to the other. Then, measure the length from just under your armpit to your hip bone. This will be the back brace part of the gimmick. Now you are going to draw out the exact measurments of your back onto the bucket, except for this peice, and this peice only, your going to add about an inch and a half to the length. Whats going to end up happening is that you're going to draw a rectangle with the two shorter sides being the width of your hips, and the two longer sides being the length from your armpit to your hip. Cut out this rectangle with your jigsaw, and sand the edges with the sandpaper until they are smooth and have no sharp parts. Now, you're going to do the do the exact same thing (measure, draw, cut, sand), except you're going to do it with the measurements from the top of your buttock to your knee pit (the part just behind your knee), and from your knee pit to your ankle. You're going to end up with three separate pieces. Now, You're going to hinge the two leg pieces together. So, take the hinge, mark where the holes need to be on the plastic pieces, drill the holes, and hinge the upper leg part to the lower leg part with the hinge and nuts and bolts. Make sure the hinge is facing the right direction. It should be attached so that it acts as sort of a knee between the two leg pieces. (Note that the leg pieces should wrap comfortably around your own leg, with the hinge directly behind your knee, and locking out in the position your leg would be in if you were sitting down in a chair). Now, you're going to connect the leg piece to the back piece with the nuts and bolts the same way you connected the two leg pieces, minus the hinge. You want this gimmick to be attached to your strongest leg, so adjust it accordingly. Since most people are right handed (right legged?), I'll describe it from the right leg perspective. You want to overlap the two pieces about an inch or an inch and a half, the upper leg on top, and drill/bolt them together with bolts about an inch from each side. Since this is the right leg, you want the right side of the gimmick to be completely flat, and the left side to be the side that has the back brace section sticking out. You would simply reverse this for the left leg.
Attaching the Gimmick- Now, you're going put on your smaller pair of pants, and lay
the gimmick flat against the back of your leg OVER the small pants. Take the elastic
bands and wrap two of them around your lower leg, and two around your upper leg,
helping to fasten the gimmick in place. Now, you're going to put on your regular pants
over top of the gimmick, and the small pants.
Adjusting Your Center of Gravity- You need to do a few things to help push your center of gravity more towards your lower body, allowing you to balance more easily. The first thing you're going to do is attach all 4 ankle weights to your gimmicked leg. They should be stacked one on top of the other, running from your ankle to just under your knee. Walking to be uncomfortable, but for an effect like this, it's well worth it. It's going to be hard for you to walk with 40+ pounds strapped to one leg and not the other at first, but you'll soon get used to it. Then, you need to take two socks, fold each of them in half, stack them on top of each other, and place them in the heel of your right (if your gimmick is on your right foot) steel toe boot. This is going to cause you to stand sort of tiptoe on this one foot, shifting your center of gravity more towards your leg. The combination of the heavy steel toe boot, the tiptoe positioning of your foot inside the boot, and the ankle weights will be enough to shift your center of gravity more towards your legs, and allow you balance better.
Performance- Now you're ready to perform. With everything in place, have two spectators hold your hands (one on each side of you), and slowly lower you back. You want to do this very, very slowly. Not only does this give the illusion a more realistic feel, but it helps to prevent the gimmick from snapping, and not only ruining your hard work, but embarrassing you and possibly causing you SERIOUS injury. As soon as you're bent back in position and you can feel yourself being supported and balanced by your right leg, tell them to open your hands, and allow you to let go of them. Slowly, slowly, slowly let go of their hands, showing that you're suspended in mid-air. Keep this position for several seconds, and then slowly lift your left leg into the air. The funny thing is that lifting your left leg straight out actually helps you balance by shifting your center of gravity even further towards your legs. Keep this position for as long as you want, being careful to keep your balance and not fall (falling could break the gimmick, and possibly break YOU). As soon as you're ready to get up, call for your assistants to come over, grab your hands, and help you get back to your feet.
Warning
If you're a heavier performer, you may not want to even try this effect, as the brace apparatus likely won't be able to support your weight. Do NOT try this effect if you have any back, leg, or neck problems.
This effect is presented extremely well if you claim to be inducing hypnosis, or a similar trance like state on yourself. This effect is best done with a very serious tone. It is not very well suited for comedy. If you still have problems balancing, try performing on a hill or a slight incline (with your legs towards the bottom of the hill, and bending back towards the top). This will shift your center of gravity even further, and make it much, much easier to balance.
Tuesday, August 21, 2007
The Icarus Effect
HERE IT IS : ALL ABOUT ICARUS (Grab a Coke, this is gonna be a long one )
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There is a slit in the back of one pant leg which extends up from the top of the back of the shoe to where the knee joint bends so that there is leeway to exit from. In addition, you leave the last two to three inches of the pant uncut so that the pant leg doesn't flop around when your foot is in. This also makes so that the slit begins right where the top of the shoe ends.
This should be a pretty easy step. First of all, make sure you purchase or use a fairly baggy pair of cargo pants, or jeans. I would recommend a color close to your skin tone for safety, just in case there is a flash. They should extend at least to the bottom of your shoes. All you need to do is to make sure that the slit begins where your knees join bends, and it ends right where the top of the shoe is. You need to do some measurements on yourself. First, put on the jeans and mark where your knee joint bends on whatever leg you feel more comfortable with. (Right handed/left handed.). Do this directly on the back side of the pants. Then, measure off about two to three inches on the bottom to leave uncut and mark that on the back side of your pants. Also mark where your knee joint bends. At this point, lay down the pants flat on the ground. With a ruler and thin marker or pen, draw a straight line from the knee joint to two to three inches from the bottom. Make sure it is directly on the back side of the pants. Finally, with a knife, scissors, or box cutter, carefully make the slit on the back layer of the pant leg exactly where the line is.
The bottom of one of the pant legs is attached to its corresponding shoe where the rubber on the back heel begins so that it doesn't come up and reveal that your leg is not inside during levitation.
This is a fairly easy process. I recommend you attach the pant leg to the shoe where the rubber on the back heel of the shoe begins. You can do this with either a heavy duty staple gun, strong tacky or hot glue. If you don’t want to really ruin the shoe, I would recommend you use either tacky or staples. Just make sure that you even up the back and attach or staple it right on the edge of the back half of the shoe. This step is pretty self-explanatory. One thing you need to make sure of is that the other pant leg is always baggy down to the same point that the other pant leg is attached at. It will look more even and natural. When the jeans are attached, you should realize that when you put on the jeans, the slit begins right about where the top of the shoe ends.
There is a type of durable shell (Hard plastic or thin metal.)(SEE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW ON HOW TO MAKE A PERFECT SHELL) which retains the shape of the exited leg. It begins at the knee and extends all the way into the front of the shoe as a hook and inside the sides of the shoe. Its purpose is so that pant leg, when exited, doesn't go limp. It goes into the shoe so that it holds up the shoe while giving the effect extra durability during levitation. This shell extends around a bit more than the front half of your leg and is attached to the pant leg. It only goes around the front because the spectators only view from the front and it will give you space to move around your leg inside the pant leg and also exit the pant leg.
IF YOU DONT WANT TO MAKE A PROPER LEG SHELL FAKE IT LIKE THIS ( it wont look as good)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You need to buy or acquire a hard, yet flexible sheet of plastic from a hardware store that measures about three feet by one foot (You can also use a thin piece of metal.). It all depends on the size of your legs. The color is irrelevant, but if you’d like, get it closer to your skin tone. Then, you need to do some measurements on yourself. First, put the sheet on the ground vertically touching the ground, and mark where it comes even with the middle of your knee joint. Then, add about eight inches to a foot, depending on your size, to that measurement to compensate for the plastic threading inside the front of the shoe. Then, with the plastic straight up again, loosely wrap the plastic along the front side of your shin. Make sure that it wraps a good length of way around your leg while still having enough space to take your leg out of it. Now, mark off how much of the one foot is not needed to wrap along your leg. You now have two marks; one for length and one for width. Now with a ruler and thin marker, draw straight lines along those marks. Then, with a knife or box cutter, carefully cut of the excess plastic that is on the other side of the mark. Now, on the bottom eight inches of the plastic, cut two slits in the plastic. You should leave about three or four inches in width in the middle of the two slits to accommodate the width of the inside of your shoe. There should be equal space on each side of the three to four inches in the middle. It depends on the size of your leg. At this point, just fold up and crease the middle three to four inches. Next, just try to bend and form the plastic to stay in a half-cylindrical shape (It doesn‘t need to be perfect because it will do so later anyway.). You are now done with setup. Again, you can use either a heavy duty staple gun, strong tacky, or hot glue. If you don’t want to really ruin the shoe, I would recommend you use either tacky or staples. There are only really two steps to installation. You can complete the process with either the pants on or by turning the pants inside out. You first match up the top of the shell with the center of where your knee joint would meet on the front of the inside of the jeans. Then, attach or staple the very top of the shell (I will refer to the plastic or metal as, “shell”.) to where the top of the shell meets up the knee part of the pant leg. You do so by just attaching or stapling along the edge of the top. The jean can drape over the rest and stay very baggy and look natural and normal. The middle part is free to move. The last step is to push the shell all the way down to the bottom of the shoe and thread on the inside of the shoe and on the insides or sides of the shoe. Now, attach or staple the three to four inch flap in the inside of the shoe, and attach or staple the two sides on the inside of the shoe all the way to the bottom. This will help retain the half-cylindrical shape to emulate the shape of your shin. After this is done, the shell will not be apparent. If you would like to make it even more normal looking, continue shaping the plastic to be as the shape of your shin. It will be very baggy and natural, yet the shell is well in place. Additionally, because the pants are baggy and the bottom part isn’t cut, the slit will be fairly camouflaged.
HOW TO PERFORM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When you are done with your setup and ready to perform, put on your gimmick (Gimmicked pants and shoe.), and you are ready to perform. You are ready at any time without set-up, as Aaron Paterson claims. Once you have it on, you could wear it all day, but I don’t recommend it. When you are ready to perform, slide your heel that you’ve prepared the gimmick on top of your shoe, and that will cut down fidgeting and fishy movement later. Then, go up to either a step or flat ground. It’s recommended that you put your hands on top of your spectators and do the levitation one on one. You could though, get away with two or three spectators if you need to. Once you are directly in front of the step or on flat ground and ready with your heel in ready position, take your leg out of the slit and place it onto the step or ground. At this point, the spectator will be directly in front of you, and you will need to keep it that way. Once your leg is there, slowly lift onto the step or into the air. Then, slowly descend. Finally, immediately put your leg back into the slit and shell. You’re then done! Your spectators are amazed. From there, you can walk away. Just watch out that they don’t look too closely at the pant leg that has the slit in it, or you can get busted. That’s all there really is to the presentation.
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN LEG SHELL (perhaps even better than whats supplied:)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You will need :
1. Fibre Glass and resin (get it from your hardware)
2. Plaster of Paris ( lots of it - get it from the hardware)
3. A shallow tub ( you'll see why just now)
3 sandpaper
4. Pantyhose (optional)
* Note: you will need to shave your leg ( no, I'm not kidding - no one said magic was easy)*
Mix the plaster of paris into the tub and let it start to harden. When its at the consistency of clay
and will retain a shape press your leg into it .
The Red part in pic 2 is the shape you of your leg once the plaster of paris has dried. You can fill the toes part up with some more plaster of paris because all you want is the red part. This is your mold.
MAKING THE SHELL
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Take your fibreglass matting and resin and mold it to the shape of the mold. It will take a while and will be a mess. don't worry! Make sure you smooth it out and the the fibre glass covers all the areas in the mold evenly.
Allow to cure for a day.
After its cured and you are happy with how thick it is etc.. remove it from the mold. (if it sticks - just use a hammer to crack the plaster around it. However once you got the mold made i suggest your make a few more fibreglass casts for more pants and if you break it.
Take your sand paper and smooth out the fibreglass shell on the inside then on the outside. It will also take a while but you can get it to be as smooth as the surface of a cars bumper!
Then put it into the panty hose and trim off all the excess edges. Glue the ends neatly. And there you have your leg shell!!! Follow the instructions above , read and re-read it! then do stuff!
Special thanks to TheMac for the detailed explanation.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There is a slit in the back of one pant leg which extends up from the top of the back of the shoe to where the knee joint bends so that there is leeway to exit from. In addition, you leave the last two to three inches of the pant uncut so that the pant leg doesn't flop around when your foot is in. This also makes so that the slit begins right where the top of the shoe ends.
This should be a pretty easy step. First of all, make sure you purchase or use a fairly baggy pair of cargo pants, or jeans. I would recommend a color close to your skin tone for safety, just in case there is a flash. They should extend at least to the bottom of your shoes. All you need to do is to make sure that the slit begins where your knees join bends, and it ends right where the top of the shoe is. You need to do some measurements on yourself. First, put on the jeans and mark where your knee joint bends on whatever leg you feel more comfortable with. (Right handed/left handed.). Do this directly on the back side of the pants. Then, measure off about two to three inches on the bottom to leave uncut and mark that on the back side of your pants. Also mark where your knee joint bends. At this point, lay down the pants flat on the ground. With a ruler and thin marker or pen, draw a straight line from the knee joint to two to three inches from the bottom. Make sure it is directly on the back side of the pants. Finally, with a knife, scissors, or box cutter, carefully make the slit on the back layer of the pant leg exactly where the line is.
The bottom of one of the pant legs is attached to its corresponding shoe where the rubber on the back heel begins so that it doesn't come up and reveal that your leg is not inside during levitation.
This is a fairly easy process. I recommend you attach the pant leg to the shoe where the rubber on the back heel of the shoe begins. You can do this with either a heavy duty staple gun, strong tacky or hot glue. If you don’t want to really ruin the shoe, I would recommend you use either tacky or staples. Just make sure that you even up the back and attach or staple it right on the edge of the back half of the shoe. This step is pretty self-explanatory. One thing you need to make sure of is that the other pant leg is always baggy down to the same point that the other pant leg is attached at. It will look more even and natural. When the jeans are attached, you should realize that when you put on the jeans, the slit begins right about where the top of the shoe ends.
There is a type of durable shell (Hard plastic or thin metal.)(SEE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW ON HOW TO MAKE A PERFECT SHELL) which retains the shape of the exited leg. It begins at the knee and extends all the way into the front of the shoe as a hook and inside the sides of the shoe. Its purpose is so that pant leg, when exited, doesn't go limp. It goes into the shoe so that it holds up the shoe while giving the effect extra durability during levitation. This shell extends around a bit more than the front half of your leg and is attached to the pant leg. It only goes around the front because the spectators only view from the front and it will give you space to move around your leg inside the pant leg and also exit the pant leg.
IF YOU DONT WANT TO MAKE A PROPER LEG SHELL FAKE IT LIKE THIS ( it wont look as good)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You need to buy or acquire a hard, yet flexible sheet of plastic from a hardware store that measures about three feet by one foot (You can also use a thin piece of metal.). It all depends on the size of your legs. The color is irrelevant, but if you’d like, get it closer to your skin tone. Then, you need to do some measurements on yourself. First, put the sheet on the ground vertically touching the ground, and mark where it comes even with the middle of your knee joint. Then, add about eight inches to a foot, depending on your size, to that measurement to compensate for the plastic threading inside the front of the shoe. Then, with the plastic straight up again, loosely wrap the plastic along the front side of your shin. Make sure that it wraps a good length of way around your leg while still having enough space to take your leg out of it. Now, mark off how much of the one foot is not needed to wrap along your leg. You now have two marks; one for length and one for width. Now with a ruler and thin marker, draw straight lines along those marks. Then, with a knife or box cutter, carefully cut of the excess plastic that is on the other side of the mark. Now, on the bottom eight inches of the plastic, cut two slits in the plastic. You should leave about three or four inches in width in the middle of the two slits to accommodate the width of the inside of your shoe. There should be equal space on each side of the three to four inches in the middle. It depends on the size of your leg. At this point, just fold up and crease the middle three to four inches. Next, just try to bend and form the plastic to stay in a half-cylindrical shape (It doesn‘t need to be perfect because it will do so later anyway.). You are now done with setup. Again, you can use either a heavy duty staple gun, strong tacky, or hot glue. If you don’t want to really ruin the shoe, I would recommend you use either tacky or staples. There are only really two steps to installation. You can complete the process with either the pants on or by turning the pants inside out. You first match up the top of the shell with the center of where your knee joint would meet on the front of the inside of the jeans. Then, attach or staple the very top of the shell (I will refer to the plastic or metal as, “shell”.) to where the top of the shell meets up the knee part of the pant leg. You do so by just attaching or stapling along the edge of the top. The jean can drape over the rest and stay very baggy and look natural and normal. The middle part is free to move. The last step is to push the shell all the way down to the bottom of the shoe and thread on the inside of the shoe and on the insides or sides of the shoe. Now, attach or staple the three to four inch flap in the inside of the shoe, and attach or staple the two sides on the inside of the shoe all the way to the bottom. This will help retain the half-cylindrical shape to emulate the shape of your shin. After this is done, the shell will not be apparent. If you would like to make it even more normal looking, continue shaping the plastic to be as the shape of your shin. It will be very baggy and natural, yet the shell is well in place. Additionally, because the pants are baggy and the bottom part isn’t cut, the slit will be fairly camouflaged.
HOW TO PERFORM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When you are done with your setup and ready to perform, put on your gimmick (Gimmicked pants and shoe.), and you are ready to perform. You are ready at any time without set-up, as Aaron Paterson claims. Once you have it on, you could wear it all day, but I don’t recommend it. When you are ready to perform, slide your heel that you’ve prepared the gimmick on top of your shoe, and that will cut down fidgeting and fishy movement later. Then, go up to either a step or flat ground. It’s recommended that you put your hands on top of your spectators and do the levitation one on one. You could though, get away with two or three spectators if you need to. Once you are directly in front of the step or on flat ground and ready with your heel in ready position, take your leg out of the slit and place it onto the step or ground. At this point, the spectator will be directly in front of you, and you will need to keep it that way. Once your leg is there, slowly lift onto the step or into the air. Then, slowly descend. Finally, immediately put your leg back into the slit and shell. You’re then done! Your spectators are amazed. From there, you can walk away. Just watch out that they don’t look too closely at the pant leg that has the slit in it, or you can get busted. That’s all there really is to the presentation.
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN LEG SHELL (perhaps even better than whats supplied:)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You will need :
1. Fibre Glass and resin (get it from your hardware)
2. Plaster of Paris ( lots of it - get it from the hardware)
3. A shallow tub ( you'll see why just now)
3 sandpaper
4. Pantyhose (optional)
* Note: you will need to shave your leg ( no, I'm not kidding - no one said magic was easy)*
Mix the plaster of paris into the tub and let it start to harden. When its at the consistency of clay
and will retain a shape press your leg into it .
The Red part in pic 2 is the shape you of your leg once the plaster of paris has dried. You can fill the toes part up with some more plaster of paris because all you want is the red part. This is your mold.
MAKING THE SHELL
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Take your fibreglass matting and resin and mold it to the shape of the mold. It will take a while and will be a mess. don't worry! Make sure you smooth it out and the the fibre glass covers all the areas in the mold evenly.
Allow to cure for a day.
After its cured and you are happy with how thick it is etc.. remove it from the mold. (if it sticks - just use a hammer to crack the plaster around it. However once you got the mold made i suggest your make a few more fibreglass casts for more pants and if you break it.
Take your sand paper and smooth out the fibreglass shell on the inside then on the outside. It will also take a while but you can get it to be as smooth as the surface of a cars bumper!
Then put it into the panty hose and trim off all the excess edges. Glue the ends neatly. And there you have your leg shell!!! Follow the instructions above , read and re-read it! then do stuff!
Special thanks to TheMac for the detailed explanation.
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